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T he first time I heard of a sloth bear, I imagined something slow-moving and cuddly slung dopily between branches, perhaps sucking on some honeycomb. I thought he was mad. Admittedly they look a bit strange, with their long, hairless white snouts, but my main reference for them was Baloo, the easy-going bear who brings up Mowgli in The Jungle Book.
Then I googled. Immediately a series of alarming reports popped up from India — the only country apart from Sri Lanka where sloth bears are native. Then there was the notorious sloth bear of Mysore, which killed 12 people. Mine is to stay away from sloth bears. So I was rather relieved when I arrived at the Hilton Yala Resort and Sajith Saj Withanage, the head ranger, told me it was the wrong time of year for sloth bears.
The best months to see them are May and June, when the palu berries fruit and the bears get high on sugar. There are also quite a few elephants, creatures that never fail to make me smile. I had already spent a week in Sri Lanka and was smitten. To start with I thought it was a little too Hilton, the main building a vast concrete and glass box resembling an airport terminal.
Not only had we sampled delicious hand-picked teas, we had also walked up to Ella Rock via the nearby Forest Monastery, where after admiring the views, a monk invited us into the temple and told me they recently had a Ukrainian sniper staying who had come for some calm. I could see why, though I wondered if he, like us, was taken aback by the number of Russian tourists in Sri Lanka — one of the few places they are welcome. Calm is also the order of the day at Yala Resort, where any qualms about its modern architecture were soon dispelled when we sat on the terrace, eating delicious prawns and looking out over the stunning pool, cleverly landscaped to flow around the trees.
Bright yellow orioles flew between the branches and families of monkeys chattered on the rooftops of the villas round the edge, built in grey stone to blend in. Beyond lay the Indian Ocean. The hotel being right on the edge of the park attracts some unusual guests. A crocodile had taken up residence in a small brook, while the buckled doors of a store room marked where an elephant recently tried to enter.
