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Gunsan, a harbor city on the west coast, transformed from a poor fishing village into an international trade hub amid the turmoil of modern history.
The unvarnished image of Gunsan, where so many stories still seem to simmer below the surface, steadily resists the speed at which cities change so easily today.
In the early s, foreign culture, most notably that of Japan, was introduced to Korea through Gunsan, just upstream from the West Sea [Yellow Sea]. The exposure has left indelible reminders, some of them sobering. It contains a robust mixture of ingredients, including stir-fried vegetables, seafood and meat. Transfer is needed at Iksan, a major railway junction, to a slow, old train that travels the last 20 kilometers. The passenger cars creak and rattle, the peeling paint slips a little more, and a peculiar odor suggests a multitude of years of passenger service.
It could have been a time machine that I had imagined. Perhaps that explains how I decided on the first place to see in Gunsan, where past and present are suffused in a montage of historical reminders and enduring memories. Founded by a Japanese monk in the early 20th century, Dongguk Temple is the only Japanesestyle Buddhist temple left in Korea.
Construction materials were brought from Japan, and the original form of each building, including the main hall, remains well preserved today, with its decidedly austere rather than ornate aura still intact. This building served as the main wing of the Gunsan Customs House from to , processing seabound exports. It is now an exhibition hall. One of the three major examples of Western classical architecture in Korea, the building is a state-designated piece of Modern Cultural Heritage.