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So I really like Naples. There, I said it. But I still like it, and with every visit, I like it a bit more. This time around, I descended into the underworld of Naples. I did not got entangled in some organized crime web, I simply climbed down a substantial number of flights and found myself some feet below the surface in a maze of tunnels, underground cavernous rooms and narrow passageways which, in their unassuming darkness exuded more history than many resplendent city elsewhere in Europe.
Over 23 centuries have passed since Greek colonists began digging holes under their feet to dig out the volcanic tufa stone that has been used through the ages to build above ground. The Romans continued digging, creating aqueducts through which they channeled the creeks and rivulets that carried water through the fractured rock to the sea.
Neapolitans used the extensive network of cisterns until the arrival of modern plumbing, two thousand years later. Above the cistern was a well, that provided access to water. Inevitably, all manner of crap ended up in these wells and in the dense urban area, it became a real job to keep the cisterns clean and the wells open. Dressed in sober, habit-like outfits, they looked a bit like monks. Climbing up and down wells, going from courtyard to courtyard or from house to house, they moved around unseen and over time gained a mysterious and mischievous aura.
And then there was Ferdinand II of Bourbon, a monarch with a chin like an anvil who started his reign racking up a number of impressive feats: first train in Italy, first steamship in southern Italy, a telegraph connection between Naples and Sicily.
Until the people, encouraged by their monarch who said all the right things, demanded greater freedoms, constitutional changes — the works. So Ferdinand let the genie out of the bottle and had a hell of a time trying to stuff it back.