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Lower the temperature. Lay off the booze. Get some rest. But where to go? The whole of Vietnam seems like a furnace in early July. We racked our brains. So, we did what any sensible people would do and started asking random Vietnamese chicks on Tinder the best place to escape the blistering heat.
Most just laughed and told us to stay home, but a quirky girl with glasses called Thuy came through. We smoke a thuoc lao , ultra-strong tobacco inhaled through a bamboo water-pipe, which for centuries shamans have claimed has entheogenic properties. Frankly, we had nothing to lose. A friend told us that he had recently cycled to the top of the mountain where the small village lies, so we figured it a safe bet. Especially, with our trusty Honda Lead, a long term hire from the ever-excellent Rentabike , which has never let us down.
And that was that. Thirty minutes later we were speeding well, doing a brisk 50 km an hour northward to Tam Dao in Vinh Phuc Province. But the patrons, a gaggle of gangsterish tattooed men in gold chains, insisted we smoke thuoc lao with them, ultra-strong tobacco inhaled through a bamboo water-pipe, which for centuries shamans have claimed has entheogenic properties. Minutes later the editor was flat on the floor, dribbling, and had to be helped back to his seat while being revived with ice-water.
Screw the shamans. The tobacco was too strong. It was time to leave. Another hour on the Honda passed, and we arrived at the foot of the mountain before any serious sunstroke had kicked in, and we started the steep, winding 10 km incline to the top. As mentioned, our pal Kym had completed the climb on his push-bike just a month previously.
We assumed two scrawny guy on a Honda Lead should not have any problems. We had problems. Our bike with minimal horsepower and a couple of sweaty dudes on the back struggled and spluttered to make the minute journey to the top. But made it we did. Tam Dao was different. It worked. It was romantic. The perfect place to take a date for a dirty or clean weekend. And when we did, what a sight! A twinkling little mountain town came into view with an eclectic range of buildings inspired by a mishmash of Swiss, German, French and, of course, Vietnamese architecture.